Archive for February, 2011

Posted

18th
February, 2011

share

8 Comments

Good Green News

Thus far 2011 had been rather a gloomy year green-wise for me. Much conversation about sustainability party-poopers such as indestructible plastics in the ocean, out-of-control genetically engineered crops in Western Australia, runaway climate change on the Antarctic Peninsula, and collapsing fish stocks everywhere. Much as I like to focus on the positive, it wasn’t always easy to look on the bright side of eco-life.

.... and at the top of Mount Kinabalu, southeast Asia's highest mountain

So it was with great delight that I read an email from Cynthia Ong and my friends in Malaysia on the success of their campaign against the construction of a coal-fired power plant. The proposed site was between the Coral Triangle, an area of still relatively pristine corals, and the rainforest that is home to such critically endangered species as the orangutan, pygmy elephant, and rhinoceros.

With Cynthia Ong of Green SURF last year

I was delighted to be involved with their campaign (see the blog I wrote at the time), as it happily coincided with a trip to Malaysia that I had already planned. With Cynthia and her team, we speedily put together a stunt on land, air and sea, as a reminder that dirty power affects every aspect of our ecosphere.

A study had shown that it was completely possible to meet Malaysia’s burgeoning power needs from renewable sources, so the overturning of the plan represents a very welcome outbreak of common sense. Congratulations to all involved, including my friends at 350.org who first brought it to my attention. I hope that other campaigns will take heart from this important victory.

This was the first real campaign that I had been involved with (as opposed to “raising awareness” or online involvement) and it was hugely rewarding. I would highly recommend getting together with like-minded individuals to tackle a specific local issue as an antidote to the eco-blues.

Other Stuff:

A couple of nights ago I was a guest on Late Night Live, with Phillip Adams. One of the most enjoyable radio interviews I have ever done. He said that I “combine athleticism with intellect, and with idealism, which is a very rare triumvirate” – so he is evidently a man of exquisite taste and judgment. :-)  You can listen to it here. And of course, don’t forget that you can catch my weekly “Roz Roams” podcast, co-hosted by Vic Phillipson, over here.

I have just joined the board of Adventurers and Scientists for Conservation, an inspired concept linking people who like to go to remote places with people who need data from remote places. Everyone’s a winner! I have a few science projects of my own planned for the Indian Ocean crossing – more on that later.

Our campaign for a plastic-bag-free Olympics in London in 2012 has reached a critical stage, with the second meeting at City Hall fast approaching. This is a major opportunity not only to prevent millions of plastic bags being added to the billions already going into landfill or oceans every year, but also to launch a major public awareness campaign. Please sign our petition here!

And finally, last night as I sat lonely as a cloud in a hotel room in Sydney after a corporate speaking engagement, I treated myself to a film, “Made in Dagenham“. It tells the story of a handful of women working at a Ford plant in the UK, who in 1968 won their battle for equal pay. Amazing to think that blatant pay discrimination was taking place within my lifetime – and no doubt still is, in many parts of the world. And completely inspiring to see what can be achieved when people take a strong stand against injustice.

As Margaret Mead said, “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.”

Posted

12th
February, 2011

share

11 Comments

Sedna in Surgery

Finding myself in the Maritime Museum in Brisbane

I arrived back in Australia a few days ago, flying into Brisbane. Even though everybody there is still reeling from the double whammy of horrific floods followed by a cyclone, I was able to have a few useful meetings, including an all-important taste test of the rawfood crackers that are being prepared by ROAR Foods for the Indian Ocean crossing. There was also time for an interview with the Sunday Mail, and a surprise encounter with myself in the Maritime Museum. Many thanks to John Gardiner, David Tangye, and all who made us so welcome in Brizzie.

Now I’m back in Western Australia for a few days to check on progress in Fremantle (thanks to Janet for the use of her house for these few days). Yesterday June and I went to the Annexe of the Royal Perth Yacht Club, which will be my push-off point in about 7 weeks from now. A large pile of goodies had accumulated during my absence, so much fun was had opening parcels from Kakadu Golf Gloves and DaKine, as well as packages containing various technological bits and bobs from my trusty helpers in California, Ian Tuller and Jay Gosuico.

Sedna stripped of all her hatch covers, seat runners, etc.

Tomorrow I will see Sedna (formerly Brocade) for the first time since she went into surgery at Ben Punch’s boatyard. He has been sending me regular updates. There are various waggish jokes about boats and expenses, e.g. that “BOAT” stands for Bring Out Another Thousand, or that a boat is a hole in the water into which you throw money – and rowboats are no exception. Although Ben’s updates have been much appreciated, it seems they invariably include the discovery of some problem, and a resulting increase in costs. Ben is well aware of my tight budget, and is keeping the cost as low as possible, but even so I am now looking at a considerable shortfall.

Delamination on a solar panel. Two panels are affected.

I recently came across Hofstadter’s Law: “It always takes longer that you think it will, even when you take Hofstadter’s Law into account”. I’m sure that Mr Hofstadter would have had something similar to say on the subject of financial outgoings too.

Other Stuff:

If you’d like to sponsor a mile (or more) of my Indian Ocean row, it’s a bargain at a mere $10. I’ll be setting up a page on this website soon to track which miles have been sponsored, but for now it’s pretty wide open. To sponsor a mile, donate using the PayPal button on the right, and send me an email via the Contact form to let me know which mile(s) you would like to sponsor. Most numbers between 8 and 5,000 are currently available. On the day that I row your mile, I will give you a special mention and a thank you on my blog.

It’s your way to own a bit of my journey, and to send a bit of inspiration my way. Thank you!!

Posted

6th
February, 2011

share

5 Comments

Antarctica Day 10: A Fitting Epitaph

Seen today on the scales in the ship’s fitness room:

“Travel is not about where you’ve been, but what you’ve gained.”

Haha. To be sure, I have gained an awful lot over the last 10 days, in every sense – experiences, friends, insights, and pounds (to clarify – not pounds sterling, alas, but pounds lard.)

I’d like to say a huge thank you to all the naturalists, staff, captain and crew of the National Geographic Explorer, and to all my wonderful fellow guests for all the fascinating conversations we have enjoyed over the last ten days. It has been formative. Now I just need a good debrief with my journal to figure out what it is that this trip has formed.

Tomorrow I fly back to Australia to continue with presentations and preparations. Back to work!

Posted

4th
February, 2011

share

11 Comments

Antarctica Day 8: Taking the Polar Plunge

"Mind out for the ice"

Sunrise 0443, Sunset 2203

Position 64 degrees 35.60′ South, 62 degrees 41.54′ West

This lunchtime I took the plunge – literally. All passengers on board the Explorer were invited to do the “Polar Plunge”, a quick leap into the 32 degree (0 degrees Celsius) waters of the Southern Ocean. Admittedly, not many chose to accept the invitation, being much too sensible. But I just wanted you to know that this was not another one of my bright ideas.

I couldn’t resist the challenge, especially when I thought of my friend Lynne Cox (who wrote a blurb for Rowing the Atlantic: Lessons Learned on the Open Ocean). She swam an entire mile in these waters. Wearing nothing but a normal swimsuit, she climbed down a ladder from a ship and swam to the continent of Antarctica. It took her half an hour. (See this report on the CBS website for more on this incredible feat, or read her inspiring book, Swimming to Antarctica: Tales of a Long-Distance Swimmer.)

Inspired by her example, I donned my gym gear (hey, it needed washing anyway) and made my way down to a lower deck, the designated jumping off point. As I went down the ladder to the Zodiac, the ship’s doctor, Patty Schiff, was on hand. “Mind out for the ice,” she said, pointing to a chunk of clear ice bobbing on the water nearby.

Taking the plunge. Note small piece of ice still in background.

Once we’d pushed the ice out of the way, and before I had a chance to think about it too much, I held my nose and jumped in. The water was not as shockingly cold as I had expected. Bracing, but not mind-numbingly freezing. Having said that, I was quite happy to hop out again. I was not tempted to try and match Lynne’s achievement.

My friends at the South End Rowing Club (not as south an end as THIS south end!) include a number of open water swimmers, who swim in the chilly waters of San Francisco Bay every weekend, all year round. I also know some people who swim every Sunday in the Serpentine in Hyde Park, London, even when they have to break the ice first. They tell me that after the initial sharp intake of breath, they get a huge rush of endorphins. I don’t know if I’d go quite that far, but it definitely got the circulation going, and taking the plunge was a good thing to add to the list of amazing memories from this trip.

Do I remind you of one of those little plastic trolls with the sticky-up hair?!

Bracing!

Thanks to fellow traveler Jeff Hillman for the photos of my plunge.

Other Stuff:

Today was our last day in Antarctica, before we head back north across the Drake Passage to Ushuaia in Argentina. I am sad that our trip is drawing to a close. Already I am trying to figure out how soon, and in what manner, I will return to this mysterious, beautiful continent at the bottom of the world – and what I can do to help protect it.

The Antarctic Peninsula is being affected more than any other region of the world by climate change. Since records began 50 years ago, it has already experienced a rise in mean annual air temperatures of 2.8 degrees Celsius, or about 5 degrees Fahrenheit. (Source: British Antarctic Survey) This is already having significant impacts on the biodiversity of this vibrant region.

And so, as I get ready to head north to Australia, and as I’m trying to figure out how to fit my new red Antarctic parka into my suitcase, I’m also thinking about what else I’m taking back with me – memories, photos, but also a new appreciation of this wonderful world, and an renewed passion to do all I can to save it for future generations.

Posted

3rd
February, 2011

share

7 Comments

Antarctica Day 7: Long Days, Short Nights, South of the Antarctic Circle

Sunrise 0427, Sunset 2252

Longitude 66 degrees 51.67’ South, 66 degrees 47.79’ West

Explorer docked on an iceberg

Today at about 5am we crossed the Antarctic Circle. I thought I felt a bit of a bump as we ran over it (not really), but it turned out the bump was caused by our captain mooring the Explorer by nudging it gently into an iceberg (yes, really!).

The Antarctic Circle is defined as the line south of which you have at least one full day of 24 hours continuous daylight, and conversely one full day when the sun does not rise at all. It lies at latitude 66 degrees, 33′ 44″ South. As we are only a smidgeon south of the Antarctic Circle, and because it is now well after the summer solstice, we do get some darkness, but not much.

I discovered this to my cost last night when I was sitting in the lounge having a few drinks with the staff. There was light in the sky so I thought it was still relatively early – until I looked at my watch and saw it was 11.30pm. I’ve been working out early in the morning, before the beginning of the day’s meals, I mean, activities. I didn’t have long to get some sleep before the alarm would go for my 6.30am session in the fitness room. So I toddled hastily off to my cabin. These long hours of daylight are very confusing to a body.

Antarctic sunset, around 10.30pm

This morning I woke to the most glorious day, the early low sunlight highlighting the contours of the pack ice as we pushed our way between small bergy bits in Crystal Sound. As I pounded through my hour on the cross-trainer, I watched the passing scenery – seals basking on bergs like oversized slugs, penguins tobogganing across the flat ice on their bellies. I kept my eyes peeled for killer whales – our whale experts had said that there are tagged killers in this area – but to no avail.

Rowing (not really) away from a seal with a taste for red-coated homo sapiens

The killer whales might have been keeping a low profile, but there was an encounter with a faintly homicidal seal this morning. One of the zodiacs (not mine, alas) was attacked by a seal that had decided it would like to bite a chunk out of the rubber inflatable boat – to the understandable consternation of the occupants. Can’t wait to see the video footage of that one.

A seal doing its morning yoga

I’ve been amazed by how much wildlife there is in the Antarctic. Last night we saw footage from the underwater ROV (remote operated vehicle), which showed an ocean floor teeming with life.  Far from being a desolate wilderness, Antarctica is a nonstop parade of weird and wonderful creatures: Gentoo, Adelie, Macaroni, and Emperor penguins; Weddell, Crabeater, Fur and Leopard seals; terns, petrels and skuas; and of course the ubiquitous red-coated homo sapiens. The latter are evidently ill-suited to these extreme latitudes as they waddle around, bundled up in multitudes of layers, while the other critters are perfectly comfortable in nothing but the coats provided by Mother Nature.

Other Stuff:

Congratulations to Edurne Pasaban, the Spanish alpinist, for winning the “People’s Choice” Adventurer of the Year. Huge thanks to the many, many people who voted for me, especially those who faithfully voted day after day. I really, truly appreciate your support. Even though the “People’s Choice” award went to Edurne, I am still officially a National Geographic Adventurer of the Year for 2010, and it has been a great pretext for spreading the word about my adventures and my environmental campaigning – so we can all still pat ourselves on the back!

The regal Emperor Penguin

My sister asked me to say hi to a penguin for her. Today I chose the penguin to receive this honour – the first Emperor Penguin that I have seen. A beautiful creature, with an endearing, shambly, “oh if I really must” kind of waddle. He patiently posed for about half an hour while zodiacs full of red-coated homo sapiens surrounded his iceberg, and a huge blue ship even gently manoeuvered into position about 10 yards away so we could all take a look. The Emperor merely looked down his imperial beak at us, and continued his grooming unperturbed.

Posted

2nd
February, 2011

share

18 Comments

Antarctica Day 5: A Little Bit of Paradise (Bay)

Sunrise 0428, Sunset 2217

Paradise Bay, 64 degrees 53.9′ South, 62 degrees 52.7′ West

Today was simply too gorgeous for words. I spent much of the day with my mouth hanging open, in complete awe of our surroundings.

I hadn’t slept well last night, due to the rolling of the boat (ironic!) so this afternoon I was sorely tempted to skip the zodiac trip and snooze a siesta instead. Oh boy. I am so glad I didn’t – which goes to prove that you rarely regret the things you do, and often regret the things that you don’t.

Today was spectacular. I wouldn’t have missed it for the world – or a snooze. Words are not adequate to describe it, so I am going to give Words the night off, and put Pictures on duty instead. Enjoy my little slideshow, featuring seals, penguins, icebergs, and me. Music is “Antarctica Echoes”, by Vangelis.

Other Stuff:

Just so you know… as we get further south, our internet is going to become increasingly unreliable. So if you don’t hear from me for a few days, don’t panic. We haven’t hit an iceberg and sunk. I will continue to write my blogs and post them when I am able to get online again.

Site by Arktisma
Hosting by Serversaurus

N a v i g a t e

C o n t a c t
S p o n s o r s