Peruvian Protesters and Bolivian Bribery

La Paz Above: Our bus gets a ferry ride across Lake Titicaca Strikes, rockslides, breakdowns, numerous bus changes, stroppy border guards, bribery and corruption… it was quite a day. Have made a little detour into Bolivia to renew my tourist visa, but this simple plan was easier said than done. President Toledo has declared a state of emergency in Peru, which is currently in the … Continued

Petroglyphs, Bugs and Bones

Majes Valley, near Arequipa This is all a bit of a contrast. From hobnobbing with New Romantics to being eaten alive by mosquitoes in one of the remoter parts of southern Peru. Never a dull moment. I’m now in the Majes Valley, a green oasis surrounded by huge dusty mountains, to study petroglyphs (carved pictures on great big lumps of rock, to the uninitiated). My … Continued

Spandau Ballet and Roast Guinea Pig

Cusco Above: I get matey with Tony Hadley Our end of expedition party was a huge and somewhat surreal night, featuring two roast guinea pigs, a total eclipse of the moon, and Tony Hadley, the lead singer of Spandau Ballet. Roast cuy, or guinea pig, is a Peruvian speciality, so it seemed an appropriate menu choice for our celebratory dinner. When we arrived at the … Continued


Cusco Above: My Timotei moment Wow, wow, wow. The last two weeks, on the archaeological expedition, have been just amazing. We had one week at base camp, followed by a week´s trekking our way across the Vilcabamba, and every single day brought new challenges and achievements. It´s been special. For the archaeological bits, check out the expedition website at You´ll see that we were … Continued

Hasta Luego, Cusco!

Cusco The view from my hostel in Cusco. I don´t even want to talk about how many steps I have to go up to get there… at altitude, too. This may be my last journal update for a little while – tomorrow I start the expedition proper, heading off into the Sacred Valley, and I don´t know where or when I will next find an … Continued